Looking at it now, visiting Copenhagen was never such a thrilling idea for us. Well, at least until the complete world lock-down and ban on travel came upon us all.

World pandemic stroked the world hard and unexpected. Nobody was thinking that traveling outside the country would be a challenge or mission impossible. After first few months of lock-down for Norway, the authorities allowed travels but only with purpose or emergency ones. Some countries like Denmark even imposed strict measures for the people coming to the country. It meant staying at least for six nights in the country. Ridiculous, but rules are rules and we obey them. Especially in the Nordic countries.

Charlottenborg Palace

After a while, the six-night-stay rule was dismissed and the borders were open for other Scandinavian and Nordic travelers except Swedes. For us it mean you only need to have Norwegian passport or a residence permit. The airplane tickets were affordable, Debeli got few days of work, I was not working at all so we took a chance and decided to have a short get away while we can. The summer vacation was looking so uncertain that we haven’t had second thoughts about the travel. And in the end, it proved us right, because situation back in Croatia went worse than expected so all of our plans for that summer went down the drain.

Wake Up hotel

Debeli booked a nice, cosy and affordable room in a very centrally located hotel where we rushed after getting lunch first 🙂

Wake Up hotel
Wake Up hotel

To most of the tourists known as the happiest place to live in the world, Copenhagen reminded us a lot of Amsterdam because of its canals and rich bike culture.

There are approximately 560 000 bicycles, almost one bike per inhabitant
Many of Danish parents use bike seats for the kids or even bigger cargo bikes to transport their kids to kindergarten or school. I once met a Danish mother who traveled to Oslo from Copenhagen, on a ferry, with her daughter and a cargo bike. Once arrived in Oslo city centre she just jumped on her bike with all of the luggage and kid in front and biked of to her apartment.
The cycle path in Copenhagen is an impressive 412km (256 miles) in length. Over half % of Copenhagen’s citizens commute to work, school or university by bicycle

Oh and the flowers everywhere!

Such beautiful gardens in the very centre reveals that small things like flowers makes this city a happy place to be

Living in Norway, now for the past three and a half years, I see Copenhagen and Denmark as big brother to Oslo and Norway. Stockholm and Sweden would be the middle sibling.

These three countries share a long history as Denmark ruled over Norway and Sweden for over 400 years after which they sold Norway to Sweden when losing the war with Napoleon.

Therefore, for a period of four long centuries, Copenhagen as the capital of Kingdom was in charge of everything. Oslo, on the other hand, was never considered worthy of the glow, not even during the union with Sweden.

St Alban’s Church

However, there is a strong connection between these countries and one can see that in the language, culture, architecture and common food they share.

Gefion Fountain
The port
Nyhavn with its colourful houses originally was a commercial hotspot in a time when Denmark made most of its money from herring fishing. Now it’s known for great restaurants, jazz music and canal cruses that we have missed unfortunately. Took a walk alongside instead….

….All the way to Christiania. That famous freetown that everybody talks about. Old part of the city where former military barracks were located now is a hot spot for buying and selling cannabis.

The local crew is very picturesque as one can imagine and some specific rules have to be respected when visiting the area. Like no photos. So there are no photos from freetown Christiania. Wanna see it, go there.

Thanks to Hans Christian Andersen, the Danish born writer of plays, travelogues, novels, poems, and fantasy stories, the city is known for being the city of fairy tales.

Den Lille Havfrue or the statue of The Little Mermaid is Copenhagen’s most visited attraction

The symbol of Copenhagen was commissioned by the owner of the Carlsberg Brewery, J C Jakobsen in 1913 and designed by Danish sculptor Edvard Eriksen.

Lovely freezing sea

Just few hundred meters from the famous Mermaid sculpture lies The Genetically Modified Paradise by Bjørn Nørgaard; a set of few sculptures that shows, probably, the most complex issues of our times, genetic technology.

While other figures are a combination of stainless steel, aluminium bronze, cast iron, gilded lead and granite, the genetically modified Little Mermaid is the only figure made of bronze. Her tail is split, as is her destiny.

The Genetically Modified Little Mermaid


Wandering around flat Copenhagen (no wander everybody walks or bikes) took us to the Assistens Cemetery, inaugurate in 1760 as a burial site for the poor at first.

During the first half of the 19th century the cemetery became fashionable and many leading figures of the epoch were buried here.

Walking through the city it was only matter of time when we would stumble upon stumble stones, small memorials for the Jewish victims of the WWII, done by German author Gunter Demnig.

The son of the above-mentioned commissioner of the Little Mermaid sculpture, Danish industrialist best known for founding the Carlsberg brewery, Carl Jacobsen followed in his father’s footsteps but he was also a philanthropist and an art collector.

Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek

Carl was very interested in antique art and thanks to his broker in Rome he acquired over 900 sculptures and Etruscan antiquities for the museum.

The extensive Greek, Roman and Etruscan Collection consists of marble statues, small terracotta statues, reliefs, pottery and other artifacts. Many of which I have studied during the first years of art history.

Sarcophagus, 3 century BC, Rome
Paul Signac, View of Mont Blanc, 1921

Over the years, Carl acquired a considerable collection of French and Danish sculptures as well as paintings so when his private villa in 1882 was extended with a winter garden, sculptures soon outnumbered plants in it.

Vincent van Gogh, Pont du Carrousel and the Louvre, 1886

Auguste Rodin, The Burghers of Calais, 1884

The same year the collection was opened to the public.

Interesting to know is that the old Danes might have been occupied with classical art but the new generation is more playful and childish. Amusement park, Tivoli Gardens, just across the gallery shows exactly that.

Tivoli Gardens

But the hat down goes to the small plastic construction toys named LEGO born in Ole Kirk Christiansen carpenters workshop who began making wooden toys in 1932. Two years later he named his firm LEGO that comes from Danish phrase leg godt (play well).

A decade later LEGO expanded with the production of plastic toys and today approximately 20 billion LEGO elements (bricks) are made every year in the LEGO factory in Billund, Denmark. That’s  about 2 million elements every hour, or 35,000 every minute.

In February 2015, LEGO replaced Ferrari as Brand Finance’s “world’s most powerful brand”.

Rundetårn or The Round Tower formerly Stellaburgis Hafniens, is a 17th-century tower situated in the downtown area of Copenhagen.

The tower is one of the many architectural projects of the notorious Christian IV of Denmark, who is highly praised in Norway and hated in Sweden. While Christian IV rebuilt and renamed the Norwegian capital Oslo as Christiania after himself, he led two unsuccessful wars against Sweden, so you get the picture.

The tower is most noted for its equestrian staircase, a 7.5-turn helical corridor leading to the platform at the top at 34.8 meters above ground that gives beautiful views the whole city.

Basically, the visit to Copenhagen did not disappoint but on the other hand it did not over surprised us as well. Although the city offers a variety of stuff, like any capital should offer, it’s not one of those super exciting cities where we would like to come back soon after the first visit.

It’s nice, calm and peaceful.  That’s for sure. We arrived on Sunday afternoon and there was not a soul in the city. The day after we heard from someone in the bar it was because everybody went out of the city to the beaches. Probably because it was one of few sunny days of Scandinavian 2020 covid-19 pandemic summer season.

The city is flat as a pancake so it makes perfect for walking or biking. The exterior is beautiful but very similar to Oslo in the architectural sense, so not crazy exciting for us.

It’s the birth place of New Nordic cuisine,  though, but it didn’t leave us open-mouthed. Why you ask yourself? Well, a more about that in the next post. Stay tuned 🙂




Kad se sad sjetim, da budem iskrena, nikad nisam posebno maštala o posjetu Kopenhagenu. Barem dok nam svjetska pandemija i zatvaranje zemalja nije zabranilo bilo kakvo kretanje.

Ludilo oko virusa koji je zahvatio svjetsko pučanstvo pokosilo nas je sve u jednakoj mjeri i nitko nije mislio da će putovanje van zemlje postati nemoguća misija. Nakon nekoliko mjeseci kako je Norveška uvela lockdown, vlasti su odlučile ukloniti zabranu putovanja za sve vrste putovanja, čak i one bez ikakvog povoda, ne samo nužne. Neke zemlje poput Danske postavile su stroge uvjete prilikom posjeta stranaca. Jedna od tih, između ostalih, bila je nužni ostanak najmanje šest noći u zemlji. Kako, zašto, nitko nema pojma. No, pravila su pravila i ona se poštuju. Barem u ovom dijelu Europe.

Charlottenborg Palace

Nakon nekog vremena, pravilo šest obaveznih noćenja je ukinuto i granice između Skandinavskih i Nordijskih zemalja (izuzev Švedske) su otvorene za stanovnike istih zemalja. Za nas je to značilo papir kojim potvrđujemo prebivalište u Norveškoj obzirom da nemamo norvešku putovnicu. Avio karte su cjenovno bile sasvim pristupačne, Debeli je ubo par slobodnih dana, ja ionako nisam radila tako da smo odlučili sad ili nikad otrpditi u Kopenhagen. Bilo je pitanje dana kad će situacija ponovno krenuti nizbrdo, a s time i naši planovi za ljetovanje u Hrvatskoj tako da smo riskirali, recimo, i profitirali od te ishitrene odluke.

Wake Up hotel

Debeli je bukirao malu, ali udobnu sobu u hotelu smještenom u samom centru, tako da nismo imali puno gnjavaže s aerodroma. Ionako vas voze automatski vlakovi bez vozača 🙂 Sjeli smo na brzi vlak, jedna linija i par stanica kasnije bili na lokaciji hotela, ali i ručka. Najbolji burgeri u gradu bili su nam preko puta sobe. Blagoslov.

Wake Up hotel

Ako niste znali Kopenhagen se već godinama nalazi na listi najsretnijih gradova za život. Nas je zapravo jako podsjetio na Amsterdam. Kanali i bicikli su razlog tome.

U gradu postoji gotovo pola milijuna bicikala, skoro bicikl po glavi stanovnika.

Brojni roditelji Danci koriste pomoćno sjedište na biciklu za prijevoz svojih mališana, no brojniji su oni koji upravljaju pravim trokolicama. Jednom sam upoznala Dankinju koja je u Oslo došla trajektom iz Kopenhagena sa svojom kćerkom. Povezle su i svoju trokolicu. Žena se samo iskrcala s trajekta, kćerku i stvari stavila u prednju prikolicu, sjela na bicikl i odverglala prema smještaju.

Biciklistička ruta u Kopenhagenu poprilično je impresivna, a iznosi 412 kilometra. Preko pola stanovnika biciklira do posla, škole ili sveučilišta i nazad.

Eh, da, i cvijeće uokolo.

Takvi divni vrtovi posvuda, čak i po centru da nije ni čudo što je grad na listi najsretnijih za život.

Život u Norveškoj doveo me do spoznaje da Kopenhagen, ili Šopnhavn kako bi Norvežani rekli, gledam kao velikog brata Osla i Norveške. Štokholm i Švedska bi bili srednji brat.

Ove tri zemlje dijele dugu povijest obzirom da je Danska vladarila Norveškom i Švedskom u periodu dugom preko 400 godina, nakon čega su Danci Norvešku prepustili Švedskoj zbog gubitka u Napoleonskim ratovima. Komplicirano je, reklo bi se 🙂

 Kopenhagen je, zbog svog statusa glavnog grada kraljevstva, bio zadužen za sve. Oslo, s druge strane, nikad nije bio smatran dostojan ni vrijedan pažnje. Čak ni za vrijeme unije sa Švedskom.

Bez obzira na prošle nejednakosti, veza između ovih zemalja je ful jaka i može se vidjeti u jeziku, kulturi, arhitekturi, pa čak i hrani.

Nyhavn sa svojim šarolikim kućama isprva je bilo trgovačko sjedište grada u vrijeme kad je Danska najviše love namlatila ulovom i prodajom haringe. Sad je mjesto središte jazz glazbenika, restorana i lokacija odakle polaze brojni kruzeri po kanalu. Mi smo se malo kasno sjetili za vožnju, a ionako su ih minimalizirali na nekoliko dnevno zbog pandemijskih regulacija, tako da smo se prošetali duž kanala.

Sve do Kristijanije. Tog famoznog slobodnog dijela grada o kojem svi pričaju. Barem mlađa generacija. Naime dio grada gdje su nekoć bile smještene vojničke barake, sad je autonomna oblast u kojoj žive hippyiji, a posjećuju ljubitelji kanabisa koji se ovdje na veliko kupuje, prodaje i konzumira. Mi smo samo bacili oko, a kako fotografiranje nije dozvoljeno (jer prodaja kanabisa i dalje nije legalizirana), a zelena roba nam nije bila napeta produžili smo dalje.

Do lokalnog groblja gdje su smješteni najveći očevi danske literature. Kako one filozofske tako i one imaginarne.

Hans Kristijan Andersen, vjerojatno je najpoznatiji danski pisac. Autor brojnih djela za male i velike preminuo je 1875 nakon 70 godina života i od tada zemljicu laganu dijeli sa Sørenom Kirkegardom, piscem i filozofom, fizičarom Niels Bohrom i drugima na Assistens gradskom groblju. Groblje je isprva otvorenom za pokop sirotinje, no kasnije se tu uvalila sama krema gornjeg sloja društva. Po običaju kak to ide. 

Mala sirena u luci vjerojatno je najposjećenija gradska atrakcija.

Izvedbu simbola Kopenhagena naložio je vlasnik Carlsberg pivovare, J C Jakobsen 1913., a skulpturu je izveo danski skulptor Edvard Eriksen.

Samo blok dalje od Male sirene leži skupina skulptura pod nazivom Genetski modificirani raj autora Bjørna Nørgaarda.

Skulpture su inspirirane, vjerojatno, najkompleksnijim problemom današnjice, genetskom tehnologijom.

Genetski Modificirana Mala Sirena

Dok je ostatak skulptura rađen od kombinacije nehrđajućeg čelika, aluminijske bronce, kovanog željeza i granita, genetički modificirana Mala Sirena jedina je skulptura u opusu koja je izrađena od bronce. Rep joj je u dva dijela, kao njena sudbina.


Tumarajući ravnim gradom, nije ni čudo što svi hodaju ili bicikliraju, zapeli smo za male mjedene spomenike na pločniku, postavljene u čast i memoriju progonjenih danskih Židova u vrijeme Drugog svjetskog rata.

Pločice se inače mogu naći diljem Europe, gdje god je bilo Židova i Nacista i gdje god je njemački autor Gunter Demnig dobio dozvolu i novčanu potporu za postavljanje istih.

Prvi potomak gore navedenog naručioca skulpture Mala sirena, danski industrijalist Karl Jakobsen, slijedio je očeve stope po pitanju filantropizma i sakupljanja umjetnina.

Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek

Karla je zanimala antička umjetnost te je zahvaljujući svojem mešetaru u Rimu sakupio preko 900 skulptura koje je isprva skupljao doma, da bi se kolekcija potom proširila na muzej.

Opsežna muzejska kolekcija sastoji se od grčkih, rimskih i etrušćanskih mramornih skulptura, malih terakota figurica, reljefa, lončarije i drugih artefakata. Masu toga upoznala sam već prilikom studioznog pripremanja za prijemni ispit povijesti umjetnosti.

Tijekom godina Karl je, također, sakupio popriličnu zalihu francuskih i danskih skulptura i slika koje su nadmašile broj biljaka u zimskom vrtu kojeg je nadogradio na vilu krajem 19. stoljeća.

Edgar Degas, Dancers

Iste godine kad je vrt sagrađen, kolekcija je otvorena za javnost.

Bertel Thorvaldsen, The three graces, 1851

Zanimljivo je primijetiti kako su se stari Danci zanimali za klasičnu umjetnost dok je nova generacija više zaigrana za zabavu i igru.

Tivoli Gardens

Zabavni park, Tivoli vrtovi, u neposrednoj blizini galeriji potvrđuje upravo to.

Ali kapa dolje ide malim plastičnim kockicama koje su nam svima zanimljive. Barem dok ne stanemo bosom nogom na njih 🙂

LEGO kockice rođene su u stolarskoj radionici Ulea Krka Kristijansena 1932. kad je dotični započeo izrađivati igračke od drveta. Dvije godine kasnije, Ule je svoju tvrtku nazvao LEGO što dolazi od danske fraze leg godt (igraj dobro). Desetljeće kasnije LEGO je proširio proizvodnju na plastične igračke i danas se, u tvornici u Billundu, godišnje proizvede oko 20 bilijuna LEGO kockica. To je oko dva milijuna kockica svaki sat, 35 000 u jednoj minuti.

U veljači 2015 LEGO je zamijenio Ferrari na listi najuspješnijih svjetskih brendova. Mislim da to sasvim dovoljno govori o uspješnosti i popularnosti brenda.

Muvajući se centrom nije bilo teško fulati Rundetårn toranj iz 17. stoljeća.

Toranj je jedan od mnogobrojnih arhitektonskih poteza famoznog danskog kralja Kristijana IV, toliko cijenjenog u Norveškoj, no omraženog u Švedskoj. Dok je u Norveškoj Kristijan IV gradio novi glavni grad kojem je dao ime po samom sebi (Oslo se do 1925 zvalo Kristijanija), protiv Šveđana je vodio dva bezuspješna rata i potamanio masu stanovnika. Jasno vam je zašto nije jednako cijenjen i omiljen po Skandinaviji.

Toranj je najpoznatiji po konjičkom stubištu i spiralnom hodniku od 7,5 okretaja koji vodi do platforme na vrhu na 34,8 metara nadzemne površine s koje se pruža prekrasan pogled na cijeli grad.

Gledajući s vrha tornja na grad, zaključila sam da Kopenhagen nije razočarao, ali ni iznenadio. Iako nudi hrpu raznolikih aktivnosti ne bih ga ubrojila u one super nezaboravne gradove u koje bi se vratila odmah. Ili ikad 🙂

Bez sumnje, grad je lijep, miran i tih. Doputovali smo u nedjelju popodne i u nekim dijelovima, onim manje turističkijim, nije bilo žive duše. Kasnije smo saznali da su lokalci uglavnom bili na plažama van grada. Uostalom, nije im za zamjeriti. Bio je to jedan on malobrojnih sunčanih i toplih dana skandinavskog pandemijskog ljeta.

Grad je ravan ko palačinka što ga čini savršenim za hodanje ili pedaliranje. Vanjsko uređenje je prelijepo i dosta slično Oslu, pogotovo po pitanju arhitekture, tako da to nije bilo najuzbudljivije, eventualno za usporedbu ova dva grada susjeda.

No, obzirom da nismo uspjeli okusiti čari nove nordijske kuhinje po kojoj je Kopenhagen poznat, izgleda da ćemo se morati vratiti ponovo. Ali samo zbog klope. No, na čemu smo ovaj put živjeli, pročitajte u sljedećem tekstu.

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