First stop during the big Italy & Spain trip in 2022 and M’s first every Italian city to visit was glorious Firenze.
We arrived on a warm November Monday afternoon with a train from Rome airport. Took a very early morning direct flight from Oslo, landed on Fiumicino airport, hopped on a 40 minute train from the airport to the Stazione Termini in Rome where we embarked on the fast train FrecciaRossa train to Firenze.
St Maria Novella
It took around hour and a half to reach the main train station in Firenze, named after a neighboring church, St Maria Novella.
Chronologically, the Santa Maria Novella is the first great basilica in Firenze, and the city’s principal Dominican church with many frescos from painted by Gothic and early Renaissance masters
The current church was built on the location of 9th century church, by the Dominican friars that were granted the location for their space.
The friars designed the church, the building began in the mid-13th century (about 1276), and lasted 80 years. The church was consecrated good hundred and fifty years after, in 1420In 1360, a series of Gothic arcades were intended for the sarcophagi added to the façade
The wealthy Florentine wool merchant Giovanni di Paolo Rucellai commissioned Leon Battista Alberti, that already did work on his palazzo, for the design of the upper part of the façade.
Alberti used the green marble of Prato, also known as serpentine, a metamorphic rock from the Apennine Serpentinite rocks, typical of the Prato areaPiazza Unità d’Italia
We had around five full days to enjoy the capital of Toscana so we rented an Airbnb in Oltrarno neighborhood. We wanted to be way from the crowd, but still close to the city center and being just 15 minutes by foot from the main square Oltrarno was just perfect.
Today the largest museum complex in Firenze, Palazzo Pitti was built for the wealthy banker of the same name, Luca Pitti in mid 14th century. In 1549 it was bought by the Medici family. Through out of decades it was expanded and so became a treasure house filled with luxurious things (paintings, plates, jewelry etc). In the late 18th century, Napoleon used the palace as his power base, and later the palazzo served as the royal palace of the newly united Italy. The first King of united Italy, Victor Emmanuel III, donated the palace and its contents to the Italian people in 1919
Oltrarno is a very quiet and nice neighborhood, close to the Basilica di Santo Spirito, filled with trattorias, bakeries, ice cream shops and a short walk from all important must-see monuments and locations. For the ones situated a bit further away, we used a perfectly complicated public transport network. As usual it is with Italians. We actually managed to download and use the public transport app.
Our Santo Spirito squre with daily flee market
Basilica di Santo Spirito built by Filippo Brunelleschi, 1444-1487
Italians are not so much of a technology nerds. Yes, they have all the apps possible, but when it comes to using them, there’s where it gets a bit complicated. You either have to have an Italian phone code number or Italian heritage, and when you finally make the use of the app, the complicated route scheme makes your life even more complicated so you decide it’s not worth it. I’m going to walk anyway.
Well, Florence has done its homework so we were able to navigate our way with the help of google maps and transport app together 🙂
We didn’t have any strict plan and tours pre organized. M was still so young and I was unsure about keeping him interested as caring for him while walking was a work on its own. Traveling abroad just to enjoy the architecture, food, wine and warm autumn days was a decent accomplishment.
While in Firenze I had a huge wish to visit both Pisa and Siena but I decided to be flexible and make plans once we were in Italy already.
After couple of days in Firenze, when we checked the weather report, I took the opportunity to do a bit of exploring on my own. It was suppose to rain while M and his father took the midday nap, I visited the Duomo, climbed the tower and dropped by the Salvatore Ferragamo museum. A good decision it was.
Remembering red Bologna, the first impression of Firenze was warm earth tones, especially orange color. The city is full of small antique shops that are facing the streets; people are well dressed with scarves, shoes and glasses frames all color matching, of course. Hard to be misses also were the perfume fragrances that people are using in abundance. Something so hard to find here where we currently live 🙂
Luxury brand known for modern, Italian-crafted leather goods, apparel & accessories for men & women was founded in 1921 by Guccio Gucci
When it comes to the beauty of the city I can’t be objective here, as my whole schooling was evolved around Renaissance art and Italian language history.
Palazzo Strozzi built at the end of 14th century is a perfect example of a classic civil architecture, used as an exhibition space today.
Its rusticated stone, bugnato, was inspired by the Palazzo Medici, but with more harmonious proportions.
Palazzo Rucellai is fifteenth-century townhouse designed by Leon Battista Alberti. Its splendid facade was one of the first to demonstrate new ideas of Renaissance architecture based on the use of pilasters and entablatures in proportional relationship to each other.
Many of these Renaissance places follow the same rectangular layout with inner courtyard, symmetrical structure and façade patterns. They are often three stories building with a facade divided and decorated with classical architectural ornaments (pilasters, entablatures). Given the fact they are almost the same, it’s not so difficult to mixed them up. NOT the palazzo that I was originally looking for, just a no named one 🤦
It’s a gorgeous city filled with art, architecture, history, food, fashion and aperol spritz at every little corner you pass. Not the most child friendly, as the pavements are so narrow, and there is so much cobblestones, so I guess Italian kids learn how to ride motorbikes at age of zero 🤣
Situated on the river Arno, Firenze might be the second most popular tourist location in Italy, just next to Rome.
Ponte Vecchio, a medieval bridge consisting of a three segmental arches is the only bridge in Florence spared from destruction during World War II
Although floods of the river Arno has repeatedly damaged the bridge, Ponte Vecchio has stood for the past 680 or so years.
The bridge is connecting important tourist locations on the two banks of the river (Piazza del Duomo, Piazza della Signoria on one side with Palazzo Pitti and Santo Spirito in the Oltrarno on the other) and although pedestrian bridge it’s very busy on all part of the day.
Back in the day, during the reign of Cosimo I de’ Medici in mid 16th century, in order to connect the Palazzo Vecchio (Florence’s town hall and the headquarter of the government at the time) with the Palazzo Pitti, his residence, the Grand Duke Cosimo instructed Giorgio Vasari to build the corridor for the easier and more convenient passage.
The covered passageway almost a kilometer long allowed for the member of the Medici family to move freely and unnoticed, between his residence and the government palace.
The meat market that was operating at the time in Ponte Vecchio was moved to avoid its smell reaching into the passage, and its place was taken by the goldsmith shops that still occupy the bridge
The eight most populated city in Italy and the most populated city in Tuscany, Firenze is visited by 10 to 16 million tourist each year. We spotted around third during our visit. I can’t imagine how does the city feels during the summer.
Speaking of the open markets, Mercato del Porcellino situated in a 16th century loggia got it’s name after the bronze sculpture of the boar (porcellino, it = little pig, eng). Under the roof of the loggia you can find all sorts of goods, t-shirts, souvenirs, bags, belts and small stuffed animals in the shape of porcellino. As with many bronze sculptures in the world, the little pig is no immune to peoples harassment. The tradition is to either put a coin into the boar’s gaping jaws, for good luck, or just rub the boar’s snout to make sure to come back to Firenze once again
The main square of the city as well as the main point of the origin and history of the Florentine Republic is Piazza della Signoria.
The famous Fountain of Neptune situated in the middle of Piazza della Signoria was commissioned by Cosimo I de’ Medici in 1559 to celebrate the marriage of his son; Francesco de’ Medici I to Grand Duchess Joanna of Austria. The fountain was designed by Baccio Bandinelli, but created by Bartolomeo Ammannati between 1560 and 1574. It incorporates a series of mythological figures and iconographies that symbolize both Cosimo I de’ Medici’s power and the union of Francesco and Joanna.
The Loggia dei Lanzi, or the Loggia della Signoria, on the corner of the Piazza della Signoria was constructed around 1380ies by Benci di Cione and Simone di Francesco Talenti to house the assemblies of the people and hold public ceremonies
A reproduction of Michelangelo’s statue David, as the original is housed in the Galleria dell’Accademia. is proudly standing in front of the Palazzo Vecchio
The solid, massive building, Palazzo Vecchio or Town Hall with the clock tower is a work of Arnolfo di Cambio, a 13th century architect
Anyone in love with Italy, art, architecture, bit of food and wine will and definitely should visit Firenze once in his life. If not live there. Oh that would be a dream. But without the baby strollers 🥴
Strolling through the city
The center of medieval European trade and finance, Firenze became major political, economic and artist center during the 14th and 15th century. It’s considered the birthplace of Renaissance with all of the architecture to witness that fact.
The most iconic building, seen almost form every angle of the city is the famous Duomo, or Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore.
Il Duomo
According to the archaeological excavations, the 13th century basilica was erected on the previous one from 5th century, the cathedral dedicated to Saint Reparata.
The construction of Il Duomo started in 1296 in the Gothic style according to the design of Arnolfo di Cambio and finally completed in 1436 with the magnificent dome; work of Filippo BrunelleschiThe octagonal structure in stone and brick masonry, with external diameter 54.8 metres, in fact consisting of two domes, is considered the largest brick dome ever
The lower part of the Brunelleschi’s Dome was painted by Giorgio Vasari and Federico Zuccari between 1572 and 1579.
It’s the worlds largest painted surface in fresco (3600 square meters) with frescoes depicting scenes of the Last Judgement
463 steps leads the way to the top of the domeTotally different from the corolful facade is the vast and empty Gothic interiorThe pavement in colored marble, attributed to Baccio d’Agnolo and Francesco da Sangallo
For a small price of 30 euros one can buy the ticket that give him the access to all of the monuments (Cathedral, Dome, Baptistery, Tower and the Museum)
The 84,7 meters tall tower was begun in 1334 by Giotto, the most important artist then living. At the time of this death three years after, and when only the first lever of the tower was finished, the work continued his student; Andrea Pisano
The exterior is entirely clad in white, red and green marble, with geometric and flowery motifs with the first two levels enriched with sculptures carved in the 14th and 15th centuries.
A narrow stairway (no lift mind you) of 414 steps takes you all the way to the top for the magnificent cloudy view of the city
The tower has 12 bells: the five oldest are now in disuse; the largest, called The Apostolic, cast in 1401 by Niccolò and Luca Bondigi of Cortona, can be admired along the visit path.
One of the oldest buildings in the city, constructed between 1059 and 1128 in the Firenze Romanesque style is the octagonal baptistery of St John, found standing just across the Cathedral.
Up to 1935, the Baptistery was the only place where Florentines were baptized and it’s worth mentioning that all of the most famous Florentines like Dante, Amerigo Vespucci, and members of the Medici family were baptized in this baptistery (not available for visit at the time of our stay bcs of renovation)
The Baptistery is renowned for its three sets bronze doors with relief sculptures.
The south doors, created by Andrea Pisano in 1336, consist of 28 quatrefoil panels altogether, with twenty top panels depicting scenes from the life of St. John the Baptist
In 1399 21 year old Lorenzo Ghiberti won the competition together with Filippo Brunelleschi for the north doors. Brunelleschi was too proud to share his load with anyone so he ditched Lorenzo for architecture studies and went to Rome
It took 21 years for Lorenzo to finish the bronze doors consisting of twenty-eight panels, with twenty panels depicting the life of Christ from the New Testament and the rest showing the four evangelists and the Church Fathers St Ambrose, St Jerome, St Gregory and St Augustine
Another 27 years were spent on ten panels depicting scenes from the Old Testament for the East doors or The Gates of Paradise, as Michelangelo has referred to it
All of the original doors are now held and preserved in the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo where one can enter for free with any of the ticket combinations bought for the complex.
The museum, located just east of the Duomo contains many of the original works of art created for Firenze Cathedral.
Most of the exterior sculptures removed from the buildings are now replaced by replica pieces, with the museum conserving the originals.
Display of the cathedral facade with the correctly located original sculptures
The famous Pietà sculpture with crippled Christ by Michelangelo is one of the many sculptures in the never-ending museum.
According to Vasari, Michelangelo originally made the sculpture for his tomb in Santa Maria Maggiore in Rome. Before the work was done and after intentionally damaging Christ’s left arm and leg for who-knows-what reason, he decided to sell the sculpture.
When Michelangelo began to work on the sculpture, he was 72 years of age. Without commission, Mickey worked tirelessly into the night with just a single candle to illuminate his work. Vasari wrote that he began to work on this sculpture to amuse his mind and to keep his body healthy. After 8 years of working, Mickey attempted to destroy the sculpture and so the work was never completed, as the left leg of the Christ is still missing
The face of Nicodemus under the hood is considered to be a self-portrait of Michelangelo himself
During the rule of Medici family, a wealthy Italian banking and political dynasty family that birthed some popes, Florence became a mecca for the artists and architects, such as Cimabue, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Donatello, Masaccio, Ghiberti, Filippo Lippi, Botticelli, Paolo Uccello, da Vinci and Michelangelo.
The largest Franciscan church in the world, Basilica di Santa Croce, built in mid 15th century, is most notable for being the burial or commemorative place for some very famous Italians.
The church is a three naves basilica separated by lines of octagonal columns with a wooden roof
Burial place for Lorenzo Ghiberti, Italian Renaissance sculptor, best known as the creator of two sets of bronze doors of the Baptistery of St. John, of the Firenze cathedral, the later one called by Michelangelo the Gates of Paradise
Funerary monument to Guglielmo Giovanni Maria Marconi, inventor and electrical engineer, known for his creation of a practical radio wave–based wireless telegraph system
Funerary monument to Michelangelo Buonaroti by Giorgio Vasari
Funerary monument to Galileo Galilei
Funerary monument to Dante Alighieri buried in Ravenna
Funerary monument to Leon Battista Alberti 15th-century architect and artistic theorist
Just
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On more than 40 occasions the river Arno has flooded the city. On 3rd of November in 1844 the river rose to the marked levelThe Primo Chiostro, the main cloister, houses the Cappella dei Pazzi, built as the chapter house and completed in the 1470s, designed by Filippo Brunelleschi, the one responsible for the design of the dome of the Duomo
The simplicity of the design is seen all around
But most of all in the main chapel and its dome
Thanks to the works of the Great Three; Boccaccio, Dante and Petrarch, the language or better say the dialect from Firenze, spoken in the city during the 14th century became a model for the standard Italian language now official language of Italy.
The so-called father of Italian language, author of the Divine Comedy and the one responsible for months and months of isolation during the preparation of his exam, Dante Alighieri, was born in Firenze in 1265. Although 1321 is marked as the year of his death, he actually never died and he is still haunting every single person speaking Italian many of the expressions coined but the glorious poet are still used today
In front of the house on the site of Dante’s birthplace, there’s always his imitator, reciting the verses of the glorious poet
Together with Rome, Firenze had so much influence on Italian history and art making a huge impact on the rest of the world. It’s no wonder that the city is visited by millions yearly, with some coming to study the art and some settling down and never leaving this charming beauty.
