PUGLIA (Bari & Galipolli)

If you know me, you know I adore Italy. It is definitely the only country where I like to go back every now and then. As per my likening that would be at least once a year. Looking back on the cities we have visited, it is hard to pick my favorite as they all have something special that pictures them, whether that be architecture, ancient monuments or food.

However in that abundance of beauty there is one region that I would like to go back. Now.

Puglia.

This southern region at the heel of Italys boot is known for its whitewashed hill towns, orrecchiete type of pasta and kilometers of Mediterranean coastline resembling tropical Maldives.

Clear pristine water, turquoise color and white sand were one of the main reasons why I was pushing for a holiday in Puglia. Once we found a the cheapest way to reach Bari, I made a plan of exploring and booked a fantastic sea view apartment in Gallipoli. The adventure was about to begin, with the flight from Oslo to Bari via Krakow.

We scouted the bets fare tickets for two separate or non alliance flight companies, not wise to use, because in case one changes the departure this can affect the other flight, but they don’t have the responsibility to protect their passengers, so you are basically on your own. We learned that the hard way.

But since we had definitely one evening in Krakow the chances for a mess up were acceptable or minimal.

Flying early with Ryan air from mild and chily Krakow to hot and boiling Bari was the start of one of the best summer as a family of three.

 

BARI

Bari was our stop over location before heading to the other side of the region, so I don’t have a lot of to say about it, except that was darn boiling and very tasty.

Located on the Adricatic Sea, Bari is the capital of Puglia region.

Being a port and university city it is one of the most important economic centers of mainland southern Italy.

Population of something more than 300 000 doubles up during the summer season, when thousand of tourists from both Italy and abroad visits Puglia for holidays.

We spend first 2 weeks in July in the region just before the rest of the world followed in our steps, so we avoided huge crowds both at the airport and the roads.

Bari is definitely famous for its narrow streets and maze like old town, Barivecchia, situated between two harbors.

One of this streets, called Strada delle Orecchiette, where nonne of Bari make their pasta by hand and display them on out on tables in the streets beside their houses. Courious tourists and locals stop to admire this craft but also to purchase some local products.

Our intention was, not just to eat orrecchiette for the next two weeks, but also by some for the kitchen in Gallipoli and back in Oslo. One kilogram of home made pasta from Bari safely arrived back home together with some other products like cheese, sausages and pickled greens. Proper souvenirs from the South.

After wandering the streets of Bari, waiting for the restaurants to open, we had early lunch, and ice cream before sitting in a car and driving two hours south direction Gallipoli, our main destination.

 

GALLIPOLI

For almost 2 full weeks Gallipoli was our home base.

We rented a fantastic, spacious apartment on Lungomare, with a big balcony and a gorgeous view overlooking the old town and deep blue Ionian Sea.

The town, counting around 20 000 inhabitants sit at the west coast of the Salento Penninsula and it is a fantastic combination of an old city and a modern vibrant version.

Boat procession for the Virgin Mary celebration

Our apartment located in the new part, was just 10 minutes’ walk to the city center and 15 minutes walk to the old part of the city that is bustling with tourists as majority of souvenir shops are located in that part. Supermarket and restaurants on one side, the beach and restaurant on the other side. Perfect.

The view from our balcony

The free beach Spiaggia della Purità the crown of the old part of the city. Nestled bellow the tall city walls, this 250 meters long beach doesn’t offer shade during the day but it offers a clear pristine turquoise warm sea water.

For the first few days we insisted on staying the whole day at the beach, with the little one sleeping in the wagon trolley but that proved to be exhausting for all of us. The heat was unbearable. So we would get up early, and soak up the sun before noon, then hit home, have lunch and a afternoon nap (the boys are very dedicated to that sport activity).

The crystal sea at the public beach

In the late afternoon we would then go to the beach again, enjoying the sea until the sun would dip under horizon.

Sometimes we would grab something to eat from a nearby restaurant, having our supper on the beach, enjoying sunset and loud music from the guy selling juices and ice cream on top of the walls.

When the dark would cover the city and the restaurants would open its door for an evening seating, we would slowly drag ourselves towards home, with a mandatory stop at the children playground.

Total opposite of where we live, where one can enjoy the playground throughout of the day during the summer, the playgrounds in Gallipoli would be sadly empty until the sun dusk. The heat was so strong that would boil everything leaving not much to play with. But than, 10pm when my soul would be on its way to bed, the local kids and their parents would finally occupy benches at the playground shouting at the kids and asking them what they want for dinner. At 10pm. 😊 What a life style!

…to be continued….

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DONEGAL

By the end of the first week of our road, trip through Ireland in summer 2023 the Gods of Irish weather have finally smiled and gave us some sunshine.

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PENIS BEACH

A trip to the south provinces was all about those sandy exotic beaches that I always admired in movies. I might say that Krabi didn’t disappoint me.

Ao Nang beach from where the long-tail boats depart

Railay or Rai Leh is a large peninsula between the city of Krabi and Ao Nang, where we stayed, and the beach is accessible only by long-tail boats due to high limestone cliffs that are cutting off the access through the mainland.


The long-tail boats drive every 20 minutes or so from the Ao Nang beach in various directions and on the return you just have to wait for the boat to be full (around 8 passengers) but that goes very quickly.

Limestone cliffs and turquoise sea water
The characteristic of these gondolas of southern Thailand or long-tail boats is a long tail or a pole attached to the stern of the boat with a propeller attached to it that is used for both stirring and propelling the boat
The fishermen adorn and decorate their boats with flowers and colourful bands in respect of the spirit Mae Ya Nang that looks over the boat.

Our first full day in Krabi we have decided to spend on the Ao Phra Nang beach that is an attraction for the cliff climbers as well as for the lazy tourists that enjoys the sun and the sea. Not so much the peace and quiet because the beach is overcrowded, but still there was room for everybody.

The beach
Limestone cliffs
Relaxing in the shade

At the very far end of the beach there’s a small cave. With penises. Quite surprising and funny 🙂


The cave has been dedicated to a princess goddess of love named Phra Nang whose name carries the whole beach.


According to one legend, Phra Nang was an Indian princess who was killed in a shipwreck, but according to another tale, Phra Nang was the wife of a fisherman who was lost at sea. She lived out the rest of her days in the cave, awaiting her husband’s return.


Nowadays, the local fisherman and boatmen leave offerings in the Phra Nang cave to ensure safe travel on the sea.
These offers take the form of male genitalia, so the cave is covered in many linga or lingams that are a symbol of the Hindu god Shiva and are associated with fertility and virility.

We have actually witnessed one of such offerings when a group of women brought several very realistically carved penises decorated in color cloths and colors to a cave filled with incense 🙂

We have arrived on the beach around noon. Not the best time to enjoy some alone time as the beach was slightly overcrowded, but people were moving around, coming and going out of the water so the zen experience of soaking up in the warm sea water in mid of February was not disturbed.

We stayed couple of hours on the beach before returning back to the city, just enough for Debeli to fall a sleep couple of times and for me to take dozens of photos and million memory moments for the long cold winters in Norway 🙂

View on the Tonsai beach

 


 

PLAŽA


Pješčane plaže i tirkizno more bili su jedni od razloga zašto sam pristala na put u Tajland. Moram priznati da sve one fotografije i videi koje sam gledala prije puta nisu umanjili doživljaj toplog mora i sitnog pijeska pod prstima.
Krabi je divan. Ali najdivnije su plaže.

Plaže do kojih se dolazi malim long-tail brodovima karakterističnim za sjeveroistočnu Aziju, a koji su naziv ”dugačak rep” dobili po dugom motornom upravljaču.


Vratovi brodova urešeni su cvjetovima i dugim šarenim vrpcama u znak zahvalnosti i poštovanja prema duhu Mae Ya Nang koja brodove i njihove vozače štiti od morskih i inih nevolja i nedaća.

Ao Phra Nang beach

S plaže u Ao Nangu brodovi voze svako malo na jednu od bezbroj destinacija u blizini. Svaki od brodova može prevesti od 6 do 8 putnika i kad se koji kako napuni tako se kreće na put.


Manje od petnaestak minuta trebalo nam je da dođemo do Phra Nang plaže na Railay poluotoku do kojeg se najlakše može doći brodom jer je okružen nepristupačnim terenom koji se sastoji od visokih vapnenačkih stijena privlačnih brojnim slobodnim penjačima.

Vapnenačke stijene

Na kraju Phra Nang plaže, u debeloj borovoj hladovini gdje smo se sparkirali, naišli smo na malu pećinu. Punu drvenih penisa 🙂

Drvene skulpture u formi muških genitalija posvećeni su Hindu bogu Shivi, a dolaze u raznim veličinama, bojama i ukrasima.

Pećina je posvećena indijskoj princezi božici istog imena, Phra Nang, koja je prema jednoj legendi poginula u brodolomu nedaleko od pećine.


Prema drugo legendi Phra Nang je bila supruga nestalog ribolovca koja je svoj život provela u pećini čekajući da se suprug vrati. Zahvaljujući legendama i pričama, ribolovci još uvijek ostavljaju darove u pećini da bi osigurali svoj siguran povratak.

Taman kako smo mi boravili na plaži, svjedočili smo maloj procesiji žena koje su donijele nekoliko skulpturica penisa i ostavile ih u pećini obogaćenoj raznoraznim mirisnim štapićima.


Pećina je omiljena turistička atrakcija za brojne turiste koji dolaze na plažu u potrazi za osvježavajućim morem i dugom pješčanom plažom.

Mjesto nije najbolje za zen relaksaciju jer je krcato turistima, ali svejedno bilo je mjesta za sve i Debeli je uspio ulovit par sati sna između toćanja u moru, dok sam ja bauljala okolo, fotografirala i skupljala sunčevu energiju za dugu zimu. Uostalom po to smo i došli 🙂

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