My first visit to Torino was back in 2004 with my Italian language teacher and her group of students. Few of us went on a week long trip and we stayed for free in Sermig quarters in Arsenale della Pace, where we met young people from all over Europe and with whom together we ate, slept, hang around and sorted out clothes that were donated for the people in need.

Sermig or Il Servizio missionario giovani was founded in 1964 as a nonprofit association which assists poor and homeless people.

From the early 80ies of the last century, its headquarters were located in former military arsenal, now renamed Peace arsenal (Arsenale della pace) where the organization is still functioning and that I was so happy to drop by once again.

I have to admit that I do not remember as much from my first visit so I was excited to get to know the city one again from the start. And it was a very detailed and a rich visit.

Already experienced in traveling and exploring new places, with M being older and more independent we were brave to make full immersive journey. We did tours, we did museum visits, we did countryside getaways. It was not easy, I admit, as we had to follow M rhythm and mood, but we managed. And I’m glad that we did. I hope, one day our little travel companion will be too 🙂

When you think Italy, one thinks of Rome or Florence or Milan, but very few go as far as North as Torino is located. Probably thinking that there is nothing to see or experience, which is the biggest mistake every. Even we were surprised when we started exploring the area in how much Torino has to offer.

Being one of the most beautiful baroques cities, Torino is a birth place of tramezzino sandwich, vermouth and gianduiotto chocolate, an older brother to nutella. It’s a home to Fiat automobile and Lavazza coffee industry. It’s a burial place of Primo Levi, the Italian chemist, partisan, writer, and Jewish Holocaust survivor.

Torino is a place to visit, to live and to die!

Situated on the western bank of the Po River and surrounded by the western Alpine arch and Superga hill Torino is the capital of Piedmonte region.

Historically a major European political center as it was once the capital of the Duchy of Savoy, then of the Kingdom of Sardinia and finally the first capital of Kingdom of Italy from 1861 to 1865, Torino was founded as a Roman colony under the name of Julia Augusta Taurinorum.

Although founded in the roman period and beside some ancient ruins, Torino is considered a Baroque city.

The powerful royal dynasty, House of Savoy, ruled the country until 1946, and it was they who turned a small town of Torino into the capital. To show their power they invited architects like Guarino Guarini and Filippo Juvarra that installed the typical Baroque principles, such as the dramatic use of light and decorations, they created some of the most important architectural pieces of the period.

 

The Chapel of the Holy shroud, built at the end of the 17th century by Guarino Guarini is one of cities baroque jewels.

Constructed to house the Shroud of Turin (Sindone di Torino), a religious relic believed to be the burial shroud of Jesus of Nazareth, it’s located next to the Cathedral and connected to the Royal Palace.

Guarini took over the construction of the project and redesigned the self-supporting wooden and marble dome, in order to lighten it and give it an upward thrust.

The upper part of the construction looks like an inverted basket (or an ice cream cone from outside) consisting of thirty-six staggered arches that support the dome forming an eight-pointed star. On the top, the lantern is surrounded by an octagonal shape.

Looking from bellow my neck hurt but it was so magnificent to finally experience this textbook miracle.

Once a private residence of the Princes of Carignano, today a museum, the Palazzo Carignano (1679) is another Guarinis masterpieces.

The façade was very much inspired by drawings for the Louvre done by Gianlorenzo Bernini for a King Louis XIV a decade earlier.

The palazzo is a perfect example not just of the use of the classical baroque ideas, but also how much a simple material like brick can look expensive and worthy of the royals.

From 1848 to 1861 the palace was used as the House of Deputies of the Subalpine Parliament and somewhere around that time the palace endured expansion project that can be marked by the difference in the colors of the brick.

During the two hours walking tour our wonderful guide Marina reveled secrets behind the abounding past and culture of her city Torino.

The tour started from the Piazza CLN, just meters away from the Piazza San Carlo.

Before 1935 the square was named Piazza Delle Due Chiese /Square of the Two Churches because it was just behind the two “twin” churches of Piazza San Carlo.

The name of the square was later dedicated to the National Liberation Committee (CLN it.), Italian political and military organization established at the fall of fascism.

The current clean rationalist appearance of the square is due to the 1930ies restructuring alongside the Via Roma. In less than eighth years, Mussolini rebuilt the whole street to make room for the parades and big gatherings that characterized the golden years of the regime. Something similar like the Roman deconstruction along the Via dei Fori Imperiali.

During the German occupation in World War II , the square was infamous for being home to the Gestapo headquarters, located at the National Hotel.

Initially, the statues of Benito Mussolini and Vittorio Emanuele III of Savoy were designed for the square but only two fountains placed at the back of the two churches, with the anthropomorphic allegories of the Po and Dora Riparia rivers were created. Thank God!

Btw. speaking of Mussolini, we found out that the first high rise in Torino, the racionalist building from 1933 bears the name of Dito di Mussolini, or finger di Duce. Originally intended to host offices of the Nationalist Fascist Party, but never did, it is now owned by the Royal Mutual Insurance.

Surrounding the Piazza San Carlo stretches around 18 kilometers of colonnades and porticoes built mainly throughout royal period.

Apparently the king enjoyed his daily walks, but he didn’t want to carry an umbrella so he ordered covered walkway to enjoy his activity even in the pouring rain.

Today those walkways are home to numerous shops, bars, restaurants, theatres and cinemas.

Interesting fact is, that before Mussolini’s Roman centralization and Cinecittà inauguration, Torino was the birthplace of Italian cinema and the center of Italian film production.

Because of its historic, geographical and cultural proximity to France, Italian filmmakers were naturally influenced by French cinema and very soon Torino became the filmmaking destination with elaborate film production.

Walking the busy streets of the city, under the (still) warm October sun, it was truly amazing to remember bits of my first visit to Torino but more to get to know it better.

Shadowed by the more popular Italian destination, Torino has so much to offer to all kinds of visitors. You just have to find what suits you best.

So if you ever find yourself looking for that perfect travel destination in Italy, don’t be afraid to visit Torino. Allow its beautiful palazzos and large squares filled with outdoor seating area and glasses of aperipizza (aperitivo with pizza snack) to get under your skin. Just like we did.

And don’t miss out on the famous Slice of polenta building, formally known as Casa Scaccabarozzi. Maybe it convinces you on how magnificent and beautiful Torino is.